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This will unfortunately be a pretty short post because I need some sleep soon. But here goes!
Priming with black AND white spray
For the first time in years I did something new with my priming. I tried the prime 2k technique best explained by Roman at Massive Voodoo. The short version of it is, spray the model with black primer. Let it dry. Spray a little bit with white primer. And then you have something like this:
Black in the nooks and crannies and white on the top surfaces is what I was aiming for.
Painting bricks
- Start with 50/50 Vallejo Terracotta and GW Macharius Solar Orange.
- Mix in some Vallejo Iraqi Sand or similar (like GW Bleached Bone) in the base color and add a highlight or two on the edges of the bricks.
- Wash the bricks with Vallejo Sepia Shade, mostly at the sides where they connect to the ground.
- More layers of wash – GW Gryphonne Sepia this time and add it all over the bricks but try to avoid painting over the highlights.
- Optional: Devlan Mud and Badab Black to give the bricks a more weathered look.
Off topic – Repainted the wood
I wasn‘t happy with the wood and the stone walls so I worked a lot on them to give them a bit more contrast between each other so that they don’t blend into one big grey/brown wall. It‘s not perfect but it’s a lot better than before.
With flash.
Without flash.
Etiketter:
bricks, vallejo, wood, stone, mordheim, citadel, painting, games workshop, priming, ruined coaching inn
Damn, it‘s almost been exactly one year since my last post. I guess I’ve been busy with other stuff. At least I'm back now and hopefully there will be a lot more stuff painted during the coming autumn and winter which is the best time for wargaming :)
The Ruined Coaching Inn
This is how far I‘ve gotten on this amazing house from Tabletop World. As you can see it’s only the first floor, the other two floors are still unpainted. Stay tuned for more.
Difficult to get a good shot. I will try to shoot better ones in the future.
Etiketter:
not dead, tabletop world, ruined coaching inn
An idea I have for a Mordheim building where a large tree grows inside of the local madman's house. I am considering using one of the GW trees and build the rest from scratch. I think it could be pretty cool.
Please comment with more mad ideas.
Etiketter:
madman, sketch, mordheim, house
An evening of painting and four models half-way to being completed makes me pretty pleased because I normally paint very very slow. So this was an improvement in speed and now they only need some more highlights and they will look good enough for being caught in the crossfire in the next game.
From left you have cabin boy, navigator, surgeon and a cook.
Still the same cabin boy, navigator, surgeon and cook.
Etiketter:
black scorpion, mordheim, civilians, painting
This guide is taking awfully long to complete but I‘ve come one step closer to a finished building and I thought I’d share my progress.
Repainting everything black
When I did my previous step of drybrushing on this building I got it all over the place because I drybrush pretty hard. So I needed to paint black on all areas that shouldn't have been brushed in the first place. This was very boring but in the end it will save me a lot of time and make the rest of the model more fun to paint.
Drybrushing stone
After I had done the ground work with the black, it was a sweet deal to drybrush the stone parts of the building. I started with Charadon Granite and then Dheneb Stone. Both Citadel Foundation colors. And both a bit warmer in color than Adaptus Battlegrey and Astronomican Grey. I also base coated the bricks with Scorched Brown.
How-to paint tarnished copper
I made the questionable decision to ask Totte for his opinion on how I should paint the doors and he came up with the great idea that they could be copper plated doors.
I thought, well why not, and started looking for a reference picture which you can see part of below.
Tarnished copper isn't that copperish
As you can see for yourself, old copper plated doors don‘t have that copperish feel to them. They’re actually mostly turquoise and not that shiny. So I decided that I would only use copper and brass colors for small areas of the doors and decided to base coat the doors with a blend of Vallejo Grey Green and Vallejo Falcon Turquoise. Probably a 50/50 blend, don't really remember exactly.
I then added black to my mixed color and darkened the lower parts of the door with normal drybrushing technique, checking the reference picture for guidance along the way.
The door on the right shows the door after a base coat and the door on the left the first step of added wear and tear.
I continued with a mix of Vallejo Brassy Brass(the Hammered Copper is too red in my opinion), Green Grey and Black (can't remember if I also had some Turquoise in the mix…) – drybrushing it on carefully and again, looking at the reference picture for guidance.
Vallejo Grey Green, Vallejo Falcon Turquoise, Vallejo Brassy Brass.
Highlighting the doors
I used a mix of my base coat with more of the Falcon Turquoise and drybrushed it on in streaks along the door. Mostly on the upper parts. I added Vallejo Electric Blue to make it brighter and more saturated. For the last layer I added a bit of Vallejo Sky Blue for an even brighter color.
The tarnished copper doors completed
This is the final result(except that the hinges needs a wash). I must say I‘m pleased with my first attempt at creating this effect. I would love to see if any of you readers have painted any tarnished copper and how you’ve done it, please comment as always. And if you think my effort looks like shit, please do tell ;)
Shot in daylight.
Shot with artificial light.
Previous parts of this guide can be found here:
STEP 2: The Citadel Fortified Manor Painting Guide Part II
STEP 1: Oh my, that's a very yellow house
Etiketter:
scenery, drybrush, doors, tarnished copper, vallejo, fortified manor, mordheim, citadel
This is how it looked when I started.
You can find the first part of this guide filed under Oh my, that's a very yellow house.
From Yellow to Crème Caramel
A very simple step. All you need is a lot of wash. I use Vallejo‘s washes for buildings because it is so much cheaper than Citadel’s. On Relish Models it costs approximately 6€. If I would buy seventeen Citadel washes (which would be the same amount as in the big Vallejo wash) it would add up to 60€! GW sure knows how to squeeze the last little pennies out of their minions.
Grab your brush and start washing
It will probably never get more uncomplicated to paint than this. Dip your brush and paint over all the Iyanden Darksun areas. Try to put more wash around window edges for example, but the wash will probably end up in those places anyway. After you‘re done it needs to dry for quite some time. At least if you use Vallejo washes, they take a lot longer to dry than Citadel’s.
The result will look a bit like Crème Caramel …
When it's dry – drybrush
Take out your big ugly looking drybrush and load it up with a sand color. I use Vallejo Iraqui Sand on this building but it will work with any pale sand color.
Remove the excess paint by brushing it off on tissue paper. You will need more paint left on the brush if you compare to how much you would leave on for drybrushing armor on a small miniature. Here we still need some paint to cover a lot of the “Caramel” so don't brush all of it off on the paper.
Drybrush on more and more sand color while doing random motions with your wrist and you will end up with something like this:
A closeup of the result from the drybrushing.
I hope to see you back for Part III.
Etiketter:
scenery, drybrush, vallejo, fortified manor, mordheim, citadel, wash
It‘s a bit hard to believe that the house on the left started out with the same color as the one on the right. Either that or my memory is failing and I painted it with the wrong color. But I am pretty sure it’s right because the only color I'm running out of is Iyanden Darksun.
And for all you guys out there who paint miniature houses, do you find it as boring as me to paint the base colors?
Look at me, I'm all yellow and ugly.
Etiketter:
scenery, mordheim, painting
Have spent the evening painting on the Games Workshop Fortified Manor House and it is really tedious work as it seems like you can go on painting forever and ever. But then again it is a really nice and detailed house so the result is quite rewarding.
I still have a bit more to paint but it's getting there. Added more variation to the roof tiles after being inspired by cianty's way of painting roofs.
I‘ve also watched Sweden take it’s first Gold in the olympics, yay! Thank you Charlotte Kalla.
Sorry about the low quality, a quick snap from my iPhone.
Another snap showing the color variation on the roof tiles.
Etiketter:
scenery, empire, roof, mordheim, painting
From grey plastic to wonderful green flowing hills of static puffiness.
The hills are alive, with the sound of gunfire
These are the steps I‘ve been following for my gameboard. Nothing fancy, pretty quick and dirty otherwise it will never be completed and then it defeats it’s purpose of being a gameboard.
- Take the costly decision to buy the pricy £150 Citadel Realm of Battle Gameboard.
- Cover the sturdy grey plastic model with a basecoat of black.
- Paint a layer of green paint on top to give it a good base for the static grass that comes later.
- Drybrush the rocky areas with grey and brown.
- Cover all grass area with PVA glue.
- Apply the static grass.
- Repeat step 5 to 6 if needed.
- Maybe give the rocky parts some more highlights.
Painting the base colors
I‘ve used some old acrylic paints I had laying around. They’re pretty cheap and work fine. I guess they can be found in any art supply store.
I used a small roller to apply black to the large flat areas and then a large brush for the rest.
Mixed a green color from blue, red and yellow because I didn't have a green one.
Out of the box. Plastic Grey.
Cover with a coat of black.
Add some dark green color.
Applying the glue
After a long wait I finally got the delivery of Woodland Scenics Static Grass Flock and Scenic Cement. So far I‘ve been trying to use normal thick PVA glue and it doesn’t work that good. For starters, it dries to fast. Secondly, it dries with a glossy finish.
Scenic Cement
The Scenic Cement is a much better products for gluing on static grass. It‘s very watery and you can spray it on with the Scenic Sprayer. That makes the process of applying glue blazing fast. You might get glue all over the place so cover up the table you’re working on.
The painted and drybrushed gameboard, the Woodland Scenics Static Grass Flock, Scenic Cement and the Scenic Sprayer.
Shake shake shake – the flock is applied
The static grass is applied by squeezing the sides of the canister to puff out the flock onto the glue on the gameboard. It will give you a cramped up feeling in your forearms but it's easy and quickly done.
Gently squeeeeeze. Puff puff puff.
A nice and thick layer of grass.
The grass didn't stick to some areas so I have to go back and fix that.
Next steps
I am far from pleased with the result so far. It looks pretty good but I have to repeat the steps with glue and static grass to cover up the areas where the glue didn‘t stick and therefore the grass didn’t either.
Adding a bit longer grass in certain areas, maybe a couple of leaves, and a bit variation to the color of the grass and the rocks and I think it will be good enough for a game of Mordheim. I will return to this with another blog post when it's finished.
Please comment if you have any questions or like to share your experience with the art of applying static grass.
Etiketter:
woodland scenics, scenery, terrain, mordheim, glue, gameboard, scenic cement, static grass
I‘ve been working on a quick and easy way to get your Mordheim gang on paper. The solution I came up with is a roster with form fields that’s editable with Adobe Reader. Just download the roster sheet, edit the fields and send it off to the printer! You can even save the file (this was made possible after I finally found the stupidly hidden setting).
I've taken the liberty to use the roster sheet from freebooters.org as a starting point.
UPDATE March 3, 2010: The Roster Sheet is now based on the version for Border Town Burning. It will work fine even if your not playing BTB. Just ignore the Warband Objective box. It will also add together the Warband Rating in a better way than last version.
View and download here
Take a quick look at it or DOWNLOAD NOW »
If you like to give me some feedback on improvements please add a comment.
Etiketter:
border town burning, mordheim, roster sheet